Some travellers come to Bhutan for the landscapes. Donna Iafrate came for the birds. A solo traveller from Canada, she spent 13 nights and 14 days exploring six regions: Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Bumthang, Phobjikha and Haa. Bhutan Mystical Tours & Adventures arranged her Bhutan birding and festival tour, combining productive birding locations, two living festivals and authentic cultural encounters.
The itinerary was well-timed. The birding was good. The festivals were real. The people, guides, driver and locals alike — made the difference. This is Donna’s story of her Bhutan birding and festival tour.
Donna began her birding journey in the forests above Thimphu. Here, Choeing led her through old-growth woodland in the early morning quiet. First, the Yellow-billed Blue Magpie swept between the trees, its electric blue plumage unmistakable. Then came the moment serious birders dream of. Choeing stopped, listened, and tracked down a Ward’s Trogon by ear alone. It is a globally vulnerable species. Very few birders ever see one. Donna had found hers on day one.
From Thimphu, the journey moved down to the warm subtropical valley of Punakha. The change in altitude brought a completely different set of species. Along the banks of the Mo Chhu river, Donna encountered the Satyr Tragopan, the most spectacular pheasant in Asia, moving through the broadleaf woodland. However, the rarest moment came at the river’s edge. A White-bellied Heron stood completely still in the shallows. Fewer than 250 survive worldwide. Neither Donna nor Choeing spoke.
Next came Phobjikha valley, where spring had already arrived. The Rufous-necked Hornbill glided between the tall trees with its oversized bill, impossible to miss in flight. Furthermore, the wide open grasslands offered excellent visibility for spotting raptors and forest edge species.
Finally, the journey climbed to Chele La pass at nearly 4,000 metres. The air was thin and cold. Nevertheless, the birding here was extraordinary. The Himalayan Monal, appeared in full iridescent breeding plumage, its colours shifting between copper, green and deep purple. Alongside it, the Blood Pheasant moved through the low scrub, its vivid crimson markings bright against the snow-patched ground. To complete the morning, a Fire-tailed Sunbird darted between rhododendron blooms. It was, as Donna later said, the kind of Bhutan Himalayan birding that serious birders plan years for.
“My journey through Bhutan taught me that there are different and positive ways to govern a nation, and how important it is to have strong laws that protect the environment and preserve nature for future generations.”
— Donna Iafrate, Canada
Some journeys surprise you. Donna arrived in Bhutan as a birder. She carried binoculars around her neck and a field notebook in her pocket. But Bhutan had other plans. Between forest walks and high-altitude ridgelines, a different kind of discovery was quietly unfolding. One temple courtyard, one ancient prayer hall, one snow-dusted valley at a time. Eventually, two places stopped her completely. Tiger’s Nest in Paro and the sacred heartland of Bumthang.
Guru Rinpoche meditated in a cave here in the 8th century. Today, Tiger’s Nest clings to a sheer rock face 900 metres above the Paro valley floor. For Donna, the trail up was a birding walk as much as a pilgrimage. Her field notebook filled steadily as she climbed. Finally, the monastery revealed itself against the blue sky.
Bumthang sits at 2,800 metres in the heart of Bhutan. It is the country’s spiritual heartland — a valley of ancient temples, apple orchards and quiet mountain air. Donna visited Jambay Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in Bhutan. The Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo built it in the 7th century. It has stood for over 1,300 years. Inside its prayer halls, butter lamps flickered in the silence. Monks chanted somewhere in the distance.
However, that same morning, Bumthang delivered an unexpected gift. Overnight snow had fallen across the valley. The buckwheat fields turned white. The farmhouse rooftops wore fresh caps of snow. Meanwhile, the temple spires rose quietly into a pale grey sky. It was a stillness that only the mountains can produce.
“The combination of birdwatching, culture, and festivals made the journey meaningful and memorable. The schedule also allowed some flexibility depending on bird activity, which was important for me.”
— Donna Iafrate
Most visitors to Bhutan never find Talo. It sits high above the Punakha valley, reached by a trail through apple orchards and pine forest. However, for those who make the climb, the reward is extraordinary. Talo Monastery hosts one of Bhutan’s most authentic Tshechu festivals. There are no tour groups here. No souvenir stalls. Just a Bhutanese community gathered around its living faith.
Donna arrived on 27 March, Day 9 of her journey. The monastery courtyard was already alive with colour. Village families sat on the steps sharing food. Meanwhile, elaborately masked Cham dancers performed in the cobbled courtyard. Prayer flags stretched overhead in every direction. Furthermore, the atmosphere was completely unhurried and deeply local. For Donna, it felt less like a tourist attraction and more like a family celebration she had been lucky enough to join.
Four days later, Donna arrived in Paro for the grandest festival in western Bhutan. Paro Tshechu takes place in the historic courtyards of Rinpung Dzong. Thousands of Bhutanese travel from across the country for this occasion. Additionally, the energy here is completely different from Talo. It is celebratory, colourful and deeply sacred all at once.
For three days, elaborately costumed monks performed the sacred Cham dances. Each dance retells a story from Bhutanese Buddhist tradition. Moreover, the costumes, the music and the crowd created an atmosphere unlike anything Donna had experienced before. Grandmothers in their finest kira sat beside young monks watching from the upper galleries. Children moved freely between the adults. Then came the final morning. The great Thongdrel — an enormous sacred silk thangka was unfurled at dawn from the face of Rinpung Dzong. Bhutanese believe that seeing it brings liberation. Donna was there for that moment. She did not need to understand the language to feel its power.
“Yes, I had a wonderful trip in your magnificent country.”
— Donna Iafrate
A minimum of 10 to 12 days is ideal. This allows enough time to cover key birding habitats, attend at least one major festival, and explore cultural landmarks without rushing. Donna’s 14-day itinerary gave her the perfect balance of all three. However, serious birders may prefer 14 to 16 days to cover more locations comfortably.
Bhutan offers two ideal seasons for birdwatching. Spring, from March to May, brings resident species into full breeding plumage. Additionally, it coincides with major festivals like Paro Tshechu, perfect for a Bhutan birding and festival tour. Autumn, from September to November, offers clear skies and migratory species. Furthermore, the Thimphu Tshechu festival makes autumn equally rewarding for combining birdwatching in Bhutan with culture and celebration.
Bhutan is home to some of the rarest birds in Asia. On a typical Bhutan birdwatching tour, you can expect to spot species such as Ward’s Trogon, White-bellied Heron, Satyr Tragopan, Himalayan Monal, Rufous-necked Hornbill and Blood Pheasant. Furthermore, high-altitude locations like Chele La pass offer exceptional Bhutan Himalayan birding opportunities rarely found elsewhere.
Paro Tshechu is one of Bhutan’s most celebrated annual festivals. It takes place in the historic courtyards of Rinpung Dzong in Paro, usually in March or April. Sacred Cham masked dances are performed over several days. Moreover, the festival culminates with the unveiling of the Thongdrel — a giant sacred silk thangka at dawn. It is a deeply spiritual experience and a highlight of any Paro Tshechu festival tour.
Currently, only 2 airlines operate international flights to Bhutan: Drukair (Royal Bhutan Airlines) and Bhutan Airlines. All flights arrive at Paro International Airport, Bhutan’s only international airport. For more information about routes and schedules, Click here
